Several times during this trip I have been driven to distraction by the all-encompassing riot that is India. Delhi is in extremis. Compound that with blistering heat, and it becomes obvious to me why this is my least favourite spot. But visit I must to try on my new teeth.
This time I return to the warm embrace of Swaraj and his friends who drag me out to the market to buy fresh Afgan bread and lassis for breakfast. I am easily persuaded, and we join Anand and his Italian wife Lucia on their rooftop nearby who have also prepared a spread. It’s a very warm welcome, and after a 24-hour journey from the hinterlands I am starved.